The baffling, wonderful lives of the olive and cream cheese sandwich.
The sandwich itself looks unassuming: simple white bread, cream cheese, and a chaotic pile of roughly chopped green olives. Yes, the olive and cream cheese sandwich from Manhattan lunch counter S&P, which Bon Appétit restaurant editor and famed sandwich enthusiast Elazar Sontag, appears humble. But the response to posts by BA and Elazar on social media has revealed that it’s much more than a sandwich.
“My grandmother always made these for me, and then for my daughter. We both love it, but other people think it’s disgusting.” “I’ve had a rough week missing mom who passed away ten years ago and this sandwich just made me tear up. I can picture her in her tennis outfit eating this with a Diet Pepsi.”Among all these comments and memories, the question of the olive and cream cheese sandwich’s origins grew mysterious and contentious. How couldfondly recall the same sandwich so differently? Where did it originate? I set out to find some answers.
Sophie Russek, who grew up in Westchester, New York, remembers eating olive and cream cheese sandwiches nearly every day as a kid—usually on untoasted whole wheat bread layered with green olives that are cut in half, plus a generous spread of cream cheese. Russek thinks the sandwich might have sprung from the Jewish culinary tradition. “I’m pretty sure it’s an Ashkenazi thing,” says Russek, who is Jewish themself. “Everyone Jewish knows olive and cream cheese sandwiches slap.
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