The 7 golden rules for making perfect pan-fried fish:
that was unlike any of the “Greek” ones I had seen in the States. Pickled caper leaves were placed delicately on a bed of arugula, topped with homemade cheese hailing from the chef’s home island. “What’s the secret?” I asked, trying to place the herbal notes that ever so gently jumped off the plate. “Fresh oregano and olive oil,” she said with a smile. Olive oil is to the Greeks what barbecue sauce is to southerners. It’s a base, a dressing, a dip, a sauce.
Here, Barbarigou shares her tips on how to pick the perfect filet—and pan-fry it in six minutes flat. As a little girl in Naoussa, fishermen taught Barbarigou a poem on how to choose the best fish, one that she still recites when selecting fresh catches today forin Athens.
“Give your fish a gentle caress, and if it has a thin film of slimy coating, you'll know that it's as fresh as can be,” the chef says. Fresh fish should also always be shiny and vivid in color and sport round tummies. A sign your fish has started going bad: a belly that looks like a deflated balloon. When you squeeze fish that is a few days old, it’ll start feeling like “squishy bread,” whereas fresh fish will feel firm like muscle. Another telltale sign: look it in the eyes.
“Examine the fish's eyes carefully, and if it's fresh, they'll be transparent, shiny and lively,” she says.“Here in Greece, we prefer small fish to fry without batter,” Barbarigou says, opting for anchovies and sand smelts, as well as larger fish like stripped red mullet, black seabream, and white seabream. “The reason these fish are ideal for pan-frying without batter is that they aren’t fatty fish.
“When we roast or boil fish, we use a plethora of herbs,” she says. “However, when we pan-fry, there's only two herbs that pair and only one at a time: fennel or rosemary.”
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