Where to taste the best of Roman cooking, from timeless institutions that haven’t changed in decades to neo-trattorias that change by the day
that set it apart from the food of all other Italian cities. While traditional trattorias and osterias still dominate the dining options with a predictable litany of specialties such as cacio e pepe, carbonara, roasted lamb, and assorted offal, there is now an increasing number of alternatives, from fast-food riffs on local recipes to international flavors and neo-trattorias.
Though the past decade has seen some serious shifts in local dining habits, generally speaking, lunch is served from 12:30 p.m. to 3 p.m. and dinner from 7:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. Once the pandemic subsides and travel resumes as normal, consider booking at least a few days in advance, or a few weeks ahead at sought-after spots like Armando al Pantheon and Salumeria Roscioli.
One major silver lining of the pandemic is that outdoor seating, once prohibitively expensive or impossible to secure, is now the norm, even at places on busy streets, like wine bar Il Goccetto. Another plus is that pizzerias are booming, as the expansion of I Quintili and 180g Pizzeria Romana attest. But COVID also continues to foment uncertainty, causing staffing issues at restaurants and making customer regulations feel like moving targets.
Still, Rome’s greatest feasts are worth navigating any difficulties. Dining and drinking in the city is as special and exciting as ever.$$$$=More than 66 euros Note: The inclusion of restaurants offering dine-in service should not be taken as an endorsement for dining inside. Studies indicate a lower exposure risk to COVID-19 outdoors, but the level of risk is contingent on social distancing and other safety guidelines. Check with each restaurant for up-to-date information on dining offerings. For updated information on coronavirus cases in Italy, please visit theEater’s bringing this map to life with a trip to Rome, brought to you by Black Tomato.
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