From Neapolitan and NYC-style to somewhere-in-betweens
The image and imprint of pizza superstar Ciro Salvo pervade the new Trafalgar Square branch of his Naples pizzeria and, with them, the real possibility — if not always the promise — of London’s best pizza ever. The raw materials for greatness are there: Ciro’s dough yields an incomparably light, supple crust, the base for world-class sourcing and baking technique. But building a Westminster team of pizzaioli that can make itway, at all times, could prove a challenge.
One of the beautiful artichoke and capocollo pizzas recently served fell flat on the edges, lacking the air-pocketed border one expects to see framing a Ciro Salvo pizza. It was good enough, which is to say, not quite good enough. When Ciro or a trusted sidekick are in London to stretch the 50 Kalò , even a pizza as basic as a Marinara, with only tomato, oregano, garlic and extra virgin olive oil, is a thrill ride.
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