Tasting: 2 fresh, coastal gins from Las Californias -- With California botanicals including kelp, hops, artemisia and damiana. cocktails gin GandT
Gin is a spirit that practically any functioning distillery can make. It’s not difficult to get ahold of some juniper, some citrus, a few peppercorns, and boom—you’ve got yourself your own rote little take on London dry gin. One could consider the relative ease and speed of making gin as a boon to the would-be distillers out there—you can turn around a batch quickly, and consumers are fairly accepting of a “more of the same” approach.
Las Californias, then, is the fusion of California and Mexican terroir. It’s not exactly a brand new idea, of course—one can’t help but be reminded of the classic, flagship Terroir Gin ofat St. George Spirits, which also celebrates California flora—but the focus on not one but two regions here gives Las Californias a vital tool to help it stand out. I tasted both of their core expressions: The botanical-driven Nativo, and the citrus-focused Citrico.
On the palate, this is really pretty assertive and punchy for being a mere 42% ABV, not in the sense of strong ethanol but a diverse array of botanical-driven flavors. Herbal, grassy and woody, there’s an exotic wildness to this spirit that can’t help but put you in the mind of a California forest scape, even if you’ve never been to one.
And yeah, it definitely does. The nose of Citrico celebrates over-the-top citrus notes, with lots of grapefruit candy and Mandarin orange, evoking orange LifeSavers candy. There are faint impressions of more herbal tones on the nose, but it’s hard to get at them past the wall of friendly, inviting citrus. “New Western” gin indeed.
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