At Tag Heuer, the Carrera watch has turned 60 years young. Case in point: the new iteration unveiled on Monday at Watches and Wonders is no commemorative piece.
A tall order for an object that’s 39 millimeters in diameter? It does pack a host of evolutions, starting with the TH20-00 automatic chronograph caliber updated by movements director Carole Forestier-Kasapi, who joined the watchmaker in 2020, and the new curving sapphire crystal that ensures maximum legibility by removing the bezel.Courtesy of Tag Heuer
The watch owes its name to the legendary Carrera Panamericana road race, an event that took place yearly between 1950 and 1954, a “rather jolly, quite dangerous” mad dash from the northern to southern borders of Mexico, said Tag Heuer heritage director Nicholas Biebuyck. He attributed the staying power of the watch to Tag Heuer’s position as an “everyman’s brand” and a purpose-first object whose few aesthetic flourishes were dictated by Heuer’s “curatorial eye to the finished product because of his understanding of the marketplace, of how to communicate and brand the products, what consumers wanted, what he would want as a design enthusiast.”
There are straightforward ideas, like the 42-mm tourbillon version with the new look or a slimmed-down, more unisex take on the Carrera Date, an automatic 36-mm chronograph that will now come with four color options for the dial and is expected to appeal to male and female consumers.But most of all, there’s the second iteration of the Carrera Plasma, which follows up last year’s lab-grown sensation with an even bolder look featuring its “Diamant d’Avant-Garde” diamonds.
Marking the Caliber Heuer 02 Tourbillon Nanograph movement, this 44-mm COSC-certified timepiece also has an oscillating weight in the shape of the Tag Heuer shield visible through its sapphire back. Whether they’re historic house signatures or new developments, Arnault said all the evolutions brought to the table share this idea of mining the brand’s history and codes while iterating them in relevant ways, such as the cushion-shaped Monza, reprising historic pushers and indices, that was among the highlights of January’s LVMH Watch Week.
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