One of the Salt Lake City area's best noodle restaurants — Kin Sen Asian Noodle Bar in Millcreek — just got better, says food writer Stuart Melling.
booted back up in 2023 – taking over the East Bench space left vacant by Nuch’s Pizzeria, at 2819 S. 2300 East, Millcreek.Prathummas credited her time under Nassi as both catalyst and education for her own endeavors. The most vivid demonstration can be tasted at Kao Thai: A lusciously tender short rib in rich curry, a direct inspiration from Valter’s osso buco.
The boat noodles — which feature beef short rib, meatballs, oxtail and chicharron — at Kin Sen Asian Noodle Bar in Salt Lake City. One of my favorite recent additions to the Kin Sen menu is the khao soi, a northern Thai/Laotian dish again meticulously executed under Prathummas’ watch. A fennel/anise diffused Thai yellow curry is the base for a duo of noodles – both a tangled crispy crown, and a softer pile of egg noodles lurking in the gravy. A giant chicken thigh and leg come next, as do sharp pickled greens that cut through the coconut-rich sauce. A spritz from a slice of fresh lime and you’re good to dig in.
If you plan to swing by with friends, another must eat is the cheekily underplayed sweet combo. The dish relies on the pizza oven left by the former tenants, and moments after ordering, the restaurant fills with the aroma of sweetly toasting bread. The dish is centered around a fort-like construction of Japanese-style, garrisoned with ice cream, mango, sticky rice, roti bread and a drizzle of this and that. The dish is a showstopper that turns heads as it heads to the table.
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