“My confidence, in a bizarre way, comes from being other,” the “High on the Hog” host Stephen Satterfield said, “and from being comfortable with myself not being clearly of any of the worlds that raised me.”
Inside Bugsy’s, the walls and ceiling were hung with Harley-Davidson paraphernalia, road signs, and posters advertising Bike Night and Ladies’ Night. Aging bikers sat around, absorbed in their cigarettes and longnecks. Most observed us with mild curiosity, but one bandy-legged man with lank gray hair ambled over unsteadily. Pointing to the jukebox, he said, “I played all these great songs.” Then he informed us that he was an undercover agent for the C.I.A., and staggered off.
Louise died at fifty-nine, of complications from diabetes. “The family shattered,” Stephen said. Later in his childhood, his older brother, Sam, Jr., succumbed to lupus. “I thought funerals were what people did.” Westminster has a stone-gated entry, fastidiously tended athletic fields, and imposing brick and limestone buildings. The Satterfields’ classmates, identically dressed in polo shirts and khakis, were almost all white. Stephen began skipping classes. Taking his journal, a joint, and a tab of acid into the woods, he’d sit and write poetry. “I was ‘psychedelic boy’—miscast from the sixties,” he said. “The other kids took Adderall and antidepressants.
In Chicago, I met Satterfield for a late dinner at Obélix, a buzzy French restaurant that he wanted to try. Its industrial windows looked out onto a snow squall, but inside it was bright and warm, filled with the din of guests who had paid a small fortune for exquisite food. Satterfield ordered for us, assuring me, “Don’t worry—if there’s anything you don’t want, I’ll eat it. I’m like a garbage disposal.”, with a glass of Crozes-Hermitage Blanc for me and a Gimonnet champagne for him.
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