Review: 'Sparkling: The Story of Champagne,' a documentary all about bubbly, features interviews with experts and spokespeople from major Champagne houses, with an emphasis on winemaking minutiae
A documentary all about bubbly features interviews with experts and spokespeople from major Champagne houses, with an emphasis on winemaking minutiae
Watch the trailer for the documentary ‘Sparkling: The Story of Champagne,’ directed by Frank Mannion. Photo: Gravitas VenturesPeter the Great took four bottles to bed with him each night. Alexander II was so paranoid that the company Roederer had to create its transparent bottle, so the czar could check for impurities . It was the Widow Clicquot who discovered how to get sediment out of the wine.
Such are some of the tales told in “Sparkling: The Story of Champagne,” and you wish there were a good deal more of them—about Napoleon, for instance: He was such a fan that his army was followed by another—an army of wine merchants, who wound up introducing the drink to Russia. Waterloo might have been bad for Napoleon, we are advised, “but it was very good for Champagne.”
Directed by first-timer Frank Mannion and featuring heirs, vintners and spokespeople for all the major Champagne houses, “Sparkling” will likely be an oenophile’s delight—it’s a bacchanalian romp through winemaking minutiae that are beyond the grasp or attention span of the everyday drinker or, certainly, the casual movie viewer.
Too many of the interviews, however, feel like there’s a publicist hovering just outside the frame, and some of the intervieweespublicists. Everyone wants to promote his or her label over the others.
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