Plus, where Times writers love to take out-of-town guests to eat
Food stylist, photographer and culinary tour guide Hisham Assaad wrote his first cookbook, a celebration and archive of the foodways of Beirut, during two catastrophic years in Lebanon: an ongoing economic and political unraveling that accelerated in 2019 , followed by the pandemic and worsened by the explosion in the Port of Beirut on Aug. 4, 2020. Assaad doesn’t sidestep or sugarcoat these realities as he illuminates the cultural fundaments that endure.
Terry, a cookbook author and chef-in-residence at the Museum of the African Diaspora in San Francisco, also is helming an imprint of Ten Speed Press called 4 Color Books that plans to release several titles by writers of color annually. “Black Food,” the imprint’s first release, marks an enlightening, exhilarating beginning.
The book is visually lush: gorgeous images of kamayan , barbecued pork and spaghetti hot dogs by photographer Alex Lau; color-saturated pages and pluck fontsa handy seasoning matrix and annotated guides to building icy, polychromatic halo-halo desserts.
In person Kalins is a floodlight of a human being: It’s somehow just easier to make out ideas, connections and paths when you’re around her. The memoir aspect of “Kitchen Whisperers” is slyer. It reveals a subtle internal tension — a woman who’s spent a lifetime perfecting writers’ copy now figuring out how to weave in her own narrative via the stories of skilled cooks around her. Most poignantly it comes through in character sketches of two of her fellow Saveur founders, Colman Andrews and Christopher Hirsheimer, and the evident pride she still feels in the groundbreaking publication they created .
about the flawed American restaurant culture: the lack of safety nets for the low-wage, often undocumented workers upon whose labor the industry runs; the failings of the soldierly brigade system on which restaurant hierarchies have long been established and perpetuated; the deep problems with tipping, a wage system rooted in racism that also emboldens sexism and mistreatment.
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