‘If this is the future of hospitality, I’m going to retrain as a plumber’
was the busiest restaurant on Charlotte Street in London on a recent Saturday night, and the people at the front desk – you couldn’t really call them receptionists or even a maître d’, because the vibe here is much,less structured than that – were fobbing off hopeful walk-ins by the dozen. Those who had already been disappointed stood outside in huddles, hungry and seemingly without a plan. Still, the fact that this street is hectic again after the past 18 months is a good news story.
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