Couture week began in Paris today with Daniel Roseberry presenting an ode to art for Schiaparelli's fall 2023 couture show.
The haute couture fall 2023 collection shown in Paris gave nods to Lucien Freud, Yves Klein, and many more avant-garde artists.Couture is often compared to art, more so than any other genre of fashion—but Schiaparelli took that concept and pushed it even one step further at its fall 2023 couture show today.
On the runway, creative director Daniel Roseberry released a collection ripe with references to fine art, from Lucien Freud to Yves Klein and many more. Klein’s signature cobalt blue was painted across models’ necks and torsos and splashed over rippled mini skirts; wooden beaded arms and necklaces were part artist’s mannequin, part Alberto Giacometti.
Roseberry’s exercise in the arts was also a stark contrast from his past work reinterpreting Schiaparelli’s surrealist codes. The theme also harkened back to the designer’s intrinsically maximalist approach, after a few seasons of drilling down into a more streamlined aesthetic. “The last season was so reduced, I really wanted the focus to be on techniques, color, and the privilege of being able to create couture,” he said backstage after the show. “Schiaparelli and the artist, it’s not something I’ve really been inspired by yet. So it’s been about going to artists that she collaborated with, but also artists that I’ve been inspired by—there’s a whole cacophony of references in there.
Fall 2023 couture was punctuated by freedom and form; the show notes called it “an impossible wardrobe.” “There’s a sense of disobedience; these are pieces a woman can assemble however she wants,” Roseberry wrote in the show notes. “Most of the ‘looks’ you see here were put together in the days leading up to this show, as opposed to head-to-toe formulas that have been labored over for months. This approach felt like a revelation.
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