Sophisticated, focused and devastating, there was a maturity to Anthony Vaccarello’s Spring/Summer 2023 offering, writes Alexander Fury
show by Anthony Vaccarello. Sophisticated. Focused. Devastating. But how about we go with powerful as the most succinct descriptor? Because that’s what this show seemed to be entirely about – the power of a brand to seamlessly erect a pathed garden and fountain, curlicued with wrought-iron and studded with salon chairs upholstered in a redux of the green brocade that draped the salons ofhimself, atop the existing fountain of the Place du Trocadéro in a record two days.
One source of inspiration Vaccarello cited was the fittings polaroids of Saint Laurent – where the slightly bleached, adulterated colours came from, poisonous greens clotted reds, a bruised lilac. And some of the silhouettes of the clothes seemed to hark back to those images – the strong shoulders of this collection spelled the 1980s, to many; as did its slithery hooded dresses in clinging body-conscious knits.
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