Discover Ronald van der Kemp's spring 2023 couture collection
Anybody who doesn’t believe that sustainable fashion can be as glamorous as any un-sustainably created couture dress parading down the red carpet should check out Ronald van der Kemp’s radical practice of upcycling and repurposing deadstock. It’s just amazing what this passionate pioneer is able to achieve, turning scraps of couture fabrics salvaged from trash into splendid frocks. “It’s Project Trashure,” he joked. “Making textile trash into treasures.
Today’s happening started with guests entering the cour of the sumptuous Residence of the Dutch Ambassador to France through a thick curtain of smoke, ominous red lights and a sound wall of disturbing clangor. Clearly a metaphor for the turmoil of world. Van der Kemp is on a mission to make us aware of the state of our crazy planet, because he has absolutely no intention of going down with the ship.
“I think that as designers or couturiers we have so much influence on people’s behavior, because fashion is such a force today,” he said. “We have to use it responsibly, positively as a driver of change.” When he started designing sustainably eight-and-a-half years ago, people thought he was out of his mind—an idealistic, delusional visionary. With the young generation embracing his approach, he deserves credit for being early to the idea.
To model today’s Wardrobe 17, he brought together a posse of friends of the house, “interesting people who share our values and stand for what we stand for,” who wore a collection entirely made by recycled or upcycled couture fabrics, lace, trimmings, ribbons, and leather scraps of all sorts, ingeniously transformed into great showstoppers. The cast was as imaginative as the clothes.
Between the rather exceptional riot of upcycled pieces, three looks were standouts, made with the developed in-house Trashure Trove fabric, a scalable project in which tiny discarded scraps of silk, lamé, or leather are re-woven into shimmering new textiles.
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