'No one who cooks, cooks alone. Even at her most solitary, a cook in the kitchen is surrounded by generations of cooks past, the advice and menus of cooks present, the wisdom of cookbook writers.' —Laurie Colwin
I realized it wasn’t just the village we had in common. I, too, had eventually progressed to a larger apartment in Chelsea, just a block away from her place. I was delighted to learn that we shared several culinary heroes: Edna Lewis, Marcella Hazan, Elizabeth David, and John Thorne, who greatly deserves to be more widely read. Colwin and I both loved transferware and collected tablecloths. We shared an affection for potato salad, flank steak, biscuits, and roast chicken.
“I remember Laurie being very enthusiastic and supportive of our farm early on,” Gordon told me later. “Things do not always go well on a farm. It is very important for us to have cheerleaders who value our work and products and keep us going.” From my recent reading, the three recipes that received the most mentions were her roast chicken, her spinach and jalapeño dish, and gingerbread. That also seemed like a very satisfying menu, so after a quick trip to the store for the few items I was missing, I started cooking.I roast a lot of chickens. In recent years I’ve become fixated about food waste, and also about money waste: why pay $6 a pound for chicken breasts when you can buy a whole bird for $2 a pound.
Of all the things I have tried with roasting chicken, however, I had not tried Colwin’s method, and I was a bit trepidatious. I wanted to make the gingerbread that night and have it for desert to round out our tribute meal, but I think two new recipes might be my maximum when the super-sous-chef husband isn’t around and I’m alone in the kitchen.
But here was the interesting takeaway: Those blobs on the sheet pan were pretty hard to stop eating once the cake was done. The bottoms even caramelized in a very pleasing way that made me think one could experiment on purpose with this batter. Miraculously , once the edges were trimmed to release the blobs , the cake came out in one piece. Served upside down, to hide the ragged edge, it was delicious for dessert later that day with a dollop of whipped cream on the side.
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