Review: Food critic Tom Sietsema’s favorite restaurants in November 2022 include Chang Chang in Dupont Circle.
Approaching the new Garten in Severna Park, a patron can see how owners Jeremy and Michelle Hoffman were captivated by the acre or so of property in Anne Arundel County when it became available. The combination of a plot of wildflowers and the good bones left behind by Cafe Bretton charm the senses, and the couple, who also ownin Annapolis, have only enhanced the grounds, which now include a beehive and a shop devoted to natural wines.
The kitchen, led by chef de cuisine Greg Anderson, reveals a playful side with its sauces. Dutch lebneh is rich with cream cheese and potent with garlic.
If I’m not getting the feast, I’m requesting uttapam, crisped on the griddle and best laced with onions and chiles, or one of the many dosas, maybe a golden scroll with a filling of potato, onion and green peas, the owner’s favorite. There’s no dishwashing machine at the restaurant, so everything is served in paper or plastic on trays. The food, and environment, deserve better.
On and on the night goes, with herbed potatoes baked in egg white cocoons; skewered salmon belly sauced with red wine vinegar, cumin and ají panca; and bomba rice swollen with garlic and culantro — think cilantro but more pungent — and dressed with soft scored squid. In a hat tip to the ancient practice of cooking layers of food underground over hot rocks, Delgado pairs thinly sliced Wagyu beef with a 30-layer bar of potato, Parmesan and brilliant ají amarillo.
Good news for diners in Potomac: The owners aim to open a fast-casual offshoot in Cabin John Village. Continuing a family tradition of combining names, the spinoff acknowledges the chef’s son and daughter, Kenzo and Emma. Stay tuned for Kema by Kenaki in the new year.. Open for indoor and outdoor dining, delivery, and takeout. Small plates at dinner $6 to $16.little sister got bigger over the summer.
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