Moon Rabbit earns Alison Cook's highest critical accolade: She will eagerly return to...
Food: Frisky, modernized Vietnamese dishes, made with good ingredients by a pair of Vietnamese and Hispanic co-chefs.Hours: Lunch: 11 a. m.-3 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; noon-close Saturday & Sunday. Dinner: 5-10 p.m. Tuesday-Friday; noon-10 p.m. Saturday; noon-9 p.m. Sunday.Who’s there: Heights neighborhood crowd in a wide age range: from young families to empty nesters and everything in between.Mixtape: Not a prominent feature. Music audible chiefly at the counter.
The mix-and-match experience was eye-opening, and a measure of the excitement Moon Rabbit’s two young co-chefs bring to their casual, year-old restaurant in the Heights area. Tam Nguyen and Rudy Vasquez show a subtle knack for combining their Vietnamese and Hispanic backgrounds and sensibilities so that their best dishes seem to sparkle and fizz.
If there is a more gripping version of shaken beef in the city, I have yet to taste it. Good-quality file mignon, respectfully stir-fried, is foundational. But then come the delights of half-melted cherry tomatoes, jalapeño wheels, and a flock of deeply roasted garlic cloves that I ended up popping like savory candy. Greenery and herbs turned it into a steak salad.
But even a modestly priced, $12 bo kho banh mi served French dip style can dazzle. The beef shank that stars had been braised until rich and melting the night I tried the sandwich. The leap of herbs and pickled vegetables and long green jalapeños against the meat was breathtaking. Garlic aioli knitted things together, and even the bread was a marvel of crackly-shiny crust and soft, airy interior.
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