Eating through the menu at Glendale’s Akkad is a delicious education in Iraqi cuisine. BillAddison reviews the restaurant’s meat-filled, yogurt-rich and syrup-soaked specialties.
A spread at Akkad Mediterranean & Iraqi Grill that includes tandoori chicken, dips such as jajik and muhammara , and kebbeh hallab .
The man seated at the table next to me at lunch — born in Baghdad and now well into his 70s, I’d learned while waiting for our food — glanced at the bowl a server had just put down in front of me. He nodded in recognition. I’d ordered, an Iraqi soup that often comprises some variation of sheep’s head, stomach and feet. This version at Akkad in Glendale swerved in milder directions: beef shank, lamb tongue and beef intestines stuffed with rice and ground meat.
My new friend watched as I leaned back in my chair, feeling full, and he said, “Let me treat you to something you must try calledis a baked, Pop-Tart-size rectangle of puff pastry; I’d noticed cooks in Akkad’s kitchen feeding sheets of it through a dough roller. The man doused hiswith simple syrup and cut it into squares with a knife and fork. I did the same, happy in the pastry’s uncomplicated sweetness and in a stranger’s kind gesture.
Skip the more typical bulgur-and-meat fried kibbeh: Its shell bounces more than crackles, and its beefy interior isn’t as generously seasoned as the exemplars at
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