'The pancake squishes silkily; the caviar pops. This is a ridiculous thing to eat. I’m so happy,' writes restaurant critic Bill Addison.
A server in a fitted jacket stands at our table at Angler, a 3-month-old luxury seafood restaurant in the Beverly Center, leaning over a small wooden cart. His object of focus is a palm-sized banana pancake — flavored with ripe banana but also other banana iterations, including a powder made by drying the fruit above the blazes in the kitchen’s massive hearth. He smears butter infused with barbecued banana peels over the flapjack.
Welcome to the domain of chef and restaurateur Joshua Skenes, Los Angeles edition. Skenes built his reputation over the last decade at San Francisco’s Saison, one of the country’s most extravagant tasting-menu restaurants.
Diners willing to spend the money likely will walk away impressed by the dishes they choose. I’m less confident about the universal enjoyment of the setting. It’s a mood: fishing lodge by way of David Lynch. Taxidermy, thick firewood paneling, stacks of wood, aquariums with sea creatures awaiting their fate . Low lighting casts tapering shadows throughout the cloistered space: The air somehow feels charged with portent.
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