Review: Doritos ketchup and mustard chips are spot on for snacking
With the condiment duo, Doritos seemed to be evoking a nostalgic, all-American summer of burgers and hot dogs served at ballparks and backyard cookouts. But there’s some global influence at play, too — the mustard flavor was inspired by the hot Chinese style, according to the brand, and ketchup-flavored chips are a bestseller in Canada and beloved in the United Kingdom.
Eating a handful of the mustard chips instantly called to mind dipping fried wontons into spicy mustard at the Chinese restaurants of my youth, with a similarly sinus-clearing effect — to be fair, they are dubbed “Spicy Mustard,” so you should consider yourself warned on that front. The tamarind tortillas, too, offered an intense, concentrated reflection of their namesake.
And if you like the experience of accumulating Doritos dust on your fingers , then the tamarind chips offer you a brick-red alternative coating for your chip-shoveling digits.My verdict? As faithful re-creations as they are, I’d put all three of the new Doritos in the category of interesting-but-not-addictive. They remind me that there’s a reason that ketchup and mustard — and tamarind chutney, for that matter — are condiments and not main dishes.
At the end of the day , these are chips I most admire for the feat of capturing flavors that, it turns out, I think are best enjoyed in small quantities.
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