Review: Can a D.C. dim-sum house compete with the best in the ’burbs?
A table of assorted dim-sum dishes at Da Hong Pao. By Tim Carman Tim Carman Reporter focusing on national food issues; critic covering affordable and under-the-radar restaurants in the D.C. area. Email Bio Follow Food reporter/columnist March 12 at 9:30 AM The two storefronts sit side by side on a semi-fashionable strip of 14th Street NW. Their facades are basically a diptych that tells the story of Chinese food in Washington over the past three decades.
More than 30 years later, dim sum has become destination dining for countless weekend brunchers, who will stand in line, whether on a frigid winter sidewalk or in a sterile suburban mall, for the chance to sip hot tea and bite into beef rice crepes, pork dumplings, turnip cakes and many other delicacies served up in threes and fours.
When Da Hong Pao debuted in 2016, the Chens promised a Cantonese feast right in the District, featuring a menu with more than 200 dishes, far more than any mere mortal could possibly sample. With 50-plus dishes, the couple’s dim-sum menu was not only more accessible for Washingtonians but also more manageable for a critic on deadline. The dim sum is available from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily.
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