Food critic Louisa Chu reviews the highly anticipated new Bronzeville Winery on Chicago's South Side.
The sweet potato ribbons dish at Bronzeville Winery, on Cottage Grove Avenue. The ribbons are deep-fried delicate curls with a dill crème fraîche dip., or the South Side, or around Chicago, but anywhere.
McMorris was inspired by the watermelon and feta salad that’s become a staple salad of the season. She didn’t just cook the melon, or compress it for that matter, in the style of The French Laundry from the summer collection of 2005. I was not expecting the crisp blackening and the smoky aroma that evoked not only the legendary Bronzeville barbecue house Honey 1 just up the street, but chef Grant Achatz’s pheasant speared on a smoking oak leaf branch, which I made during a long-ago stage at Alinea.“There would be times when the guests asked to speak to the chef,” McMorris said. “And they’d say, ‘You’re Black, but you’re not making Black food.
“When I first walked in, the first thing I saw was Lucy Slivinski’s art,” said the chef. “I won’t call them chandeliers, but hanging pieces that sort of look like nests, so the ribbons mimicked them. That was a shoutout to Lucy as a woman, as an artist and as a part of Bronzeville Winery, to give her flowers.”
The consistency is a testament to new executive chef Dondee Robinson, sous chef under McMorris. He previously worked at The Drake Hotel and The Walnut Room. “To add those little bits of white mineral that you see in soil naturally,” McMorris said. “But I’m not just putting garnishes on dishes without intention.”
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