Restaurants like Nobu, Komodo, and Cote follow in the tradition of the buzzy, glitterati-charged social dining scene established by Moomba and other locales of the early aughts.
At first, Ruth Reichl doesn’t remember Moomba. “But I looked up my review, and it all came back to me,” the iconic writer says of the Greenwich Village restaurant that represented the pinnacle of New York City nightlife at the close of the last millennium. Laurence Fishburne and Oliver Stone were investors. The Hilton sisters were always there. In 1998, Leonardo DiCaprio visited four times in a single week. What Reichl remembers is that “it was dark, crowded, loud, and uncomfortable.
Splashy restaurants open, most of them close, people move on. Yet Moomba provides a window into a weird and weirdly influential era in New York dining that tends to get overshadowed by the great restaurant boom of the early 2000s. With Giuliani wielding an obscure cabaret law in his quest to stamp out fun anywhere it could be found, establishments like Moomba offered a less rambunctious but no less exclusive night on the town.
A number of the owners of these late-’90s venues blurring the line between club and restaurant came from the world of discos and bars. Moomba co-owner Jeff Gossett had previously manned the door at Bowery Bar and Spy. “So many people in their 20s got sick of the clubs and began going to restaurants,” Gossett toldat the time. “They didn’t want to be with 16-year-olds taking ecstasy and being frisked at the door. I stopped seeing them. Now I’m seeing them again.
“You can play up the exclusivity and that can keep you busy for a little while,” says Notar, “but for it to last, you have to have something to back it up.
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