RESTAURANT REVIEW: Timeless, comfy French cuisine takes hold in the heart of Bouldin.
Austin is a city of palimpsests, and 1417 S. First is a good example. Twenty years ago, it was Cheap Price Cigarettes. Before that, it was the Austin Food Market. In 2012, that building – vacant, derelict, and just a blur on Google Maps – was rehabbed into the upscale Thai concept Sway.
The dinner menu at 1417 is classically French in nature. We started with cocktails: a cucumber gimlet for me and the French margarita for my spouse. My gimlet was chic and tart, the Empress gin and St-Germain dancing together amid a backdrop of aromatics. My spouse, a recent convert to mezcal, enjoyed his citrusy margarita so much he ordered a second midway through the meal.
For our mains, my spouse opted for the simplicity of the classic French omelette, while I chose the croque monsieur, a new addition to the menu. The omelette was extremely simple, folded and topped with a sprinkling of chopped chives. However, it was a bit overcooked, lacking the soft-scrambled center; I also wished that it had been cooked with some fines herbes to boost the flavor quotient a bit.
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