Chef Martin Draluck prepares a holiday feast that honors some of the earliest Black chefs in the young country
Food for the Fourth of July makes me think of barbecue. And when I think of barbecue, I think of my grandfather, James Howard, a pitmaster who for 30 years owned and ran Dem Bones Bar B-Que Shack on Santa Monica Boulevard in West Los Angeles.
My grandmother, Marcia Howard, made sure I knew both my Jewish and Black histories, and the work she herself had so proudly done in the civil rights movements. She often reminded me how she had been “arrested” while still in her mother’s womb, when my great-grandmother, who was the one actually arrested, was out protesting in the 1930s in New York, a few months pregnant with Marcia.
When I decided to follow in my grandfather’s footsteps into the culinary world, I started as a pastry cook around 2008, working at Joe’s Restaurant under chef Joe Miller. That’s where I met my good friend and culinary mentor, Brian Dunsmoor. Brian saw something in me from the start and told me back then that I‘d be the pastry chef at one of his restaurants one day.
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