Pralines have long been an important part of New Orleans cuisine, and Loreta Harrison makes some of the best in town.
Thirty-five years ago, when Loretta Harrison opened Loretta’s Authentic Pralines in’ old Jax Brewery building, she became the first African-American woman to own and operate a praline company in the Crescent City—a distinction she characterizes as relative. “While mine may have been the first brick-and-mortar store here,” Harrison says, “many other entrepreneurial black women preceded me.”
Indeed, free women of color have been selling pralines in the French Quarter since before the Civil War. The history is, of course, complicated. Though street-vending granted these early “pralinières” a means to support themselves, it also required a certain degree of subservient posturing. In, a book of Louisiana folklore published in 1945, the authors noted that “the delicious Creole confections…have been vended by Negresses of the ‘Mammy’ type.
Harrison was 8 years old when she made her first praline. “My mother taught all of her daughters to cook,” she recalls. “The pralines were something I was drawn to early.” After graduating from college, Harrison kept honing her skills, occasionally hawking the candies to earn extra money. Then, in 1978, the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival put out the call for a praline vendor.
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