America has regional pizza styles all its own, and each one has a fascinating story to tell. This summer, get out there and taste them for yourself. Here’s your road map.
Imagine a world before Pizza Hut, a time before Domino’s and Papa John’s homogenized our notions of what pizza can be. Over the last century, a patchwork of idiosyncratic styles emerged in family-owned pizzerias across the U.S., each one a history written in flour, tomatoes and cheese. I’ve made it my mission to sample them all.
The Detroit style is as different from Chicago deep dish as a pug is from a poodle—though, in a strictly culinary sense, the American-born pizzas do share common features. “To me, it’s silly when...
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