With this 'new' cookbook you can dine like Jane Austen.
Anything from steak and kidney pudding stuffed with oysters, to sweet-and-savory chicken pie, to cod fried in beef fat with a side of pickled mushrooms. Meals often started with delicate white soup, like the one served at the Netherfield Ball in “Pride and Prejudice,” and ended with a sugary rice pudding, a trifle with jelly, or something enhanced with a dusting of nutmeg, arguably the most fashionable spice of the 18th century.
The pineapple was a huge status symbol in Georgian Britain because of its rarity. Simon Smith for Sotheby's In a tribute to this inventive — and elegant — era Sotheby’s in London has published “The Art of Cooking: A Contemporary Twist on Georgian Fare,” which layers on the colorful history, and rejigs some 18th-century favorites for 21st-century palates. The idea for the cookbook came from Clive Lord, senior director, chief operating officer Sotheby’s Europe, to mark the 275th anniversary of the auction house and honor its own roots in Georgian England.
He’s right: In 1724, the novelist Daniel Defoe wrote about taking a visit to the town of Stilton, and being served cheese crawling with maggots, which his hosts expected him to eat with a spoon. Bread was sometimes colored with chalk and bone ashes to make it look less moldy. The Georgians were also heavy-handed with sugar, which often obliterated the taste of anything it touched, and famously rotted their teeth.
“Sweetbreads are fantastic. They do taste just like chicken, to be fair. Make them with sweet onions, some sherry vinegar, some beef sauce, they’re really nice. I wanted to get it on the menu here, but it’s so difficult to do in a restaurant when you’re busy because you need a big army behind you, and you’ve got to cook it right,” he said.
He believes Britain has the best produce anywhere — with apples at the top of the heap — and says he tries to keep his menu at Sotheby’s as British as he possibly can.
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