For most of its century-plus history, the steakhouse has stubbornly defied change, but things started to move during the pandemic. (via EaterNY)
. In 2021, Peter Luger opened its first location outside of New York in the Shibuya district of Tokyo, Japan.
As befits a proprietary offering, the fixings were all somewhat unique. The new sandwich came on an onion hero — a baguette with a few singed onions on top, presumably a corollary of the onion rolls handed out free as your meal commences. But while the rolls were soft and puffy, the baguette was firm and dense, perhaps too firm.
That flaw is the use of sauce, a cousin of Luger's bottled steak sauce: This sickly sweet goop is an unappetizing reddish brown, and has a repulsive texture that may be due to its corn syrup component. The reason I don’t complain about it is that I would never let it near my porterhouse or hamburger. Yet, there it was on my sandwich.
This seems to be the state of the modern Peter Luger, and if that’s the case, its new sandwich is right at home. Slices of thick steak are laid out on a roll with caramelized onions and horseradish. Ours was prepared medium rare, although it occurred to me later: We were never asked how we wanted it cooked.
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