Food review: Pomegranete in Great Ayton is an unlicensed Persian tearoom that turned out to be a delight
Attempts at culinary appropriation aren’t always successful; we all know chefs who have had a go at ‘traditional’ world fare and fallen short. No, said mole. It’s run by an Iranian family, it’s the genuine article. I continued to resist until one day he sent me a picture of what resembled a Sabrina Ghayour feast: bowls of creamy hummus and baba ganoush, plump flat breads studded with toasted seeds, bowls of bejewelled yoghurt and pots of ruby tea.
It’s a miserable Saturday lunchtime, with driving rain and fog thick enough to slice. I’m questioning the wisdom of the journey, but the welcome is so warm the weather is forgotten in an instant. The smells coming from the tiny kitchen are tantalising and no time is wasted ordering; maast-o-khiar is like Greek tzatziki - velvety strained yoghurt with cucumber and mint, topped with dried rose petals.
We’re perhaps familiar with falafel as a go-to veggie option in restaurants – but for the uninitiated they’re a sort of street food, made with ground chick peas, crunchy on the outside, fluffy and herby within – and here they literally melt in the mouth. Soosis Bandari is a spicy Persian sausage dish and it’s cooked here with caramelised onions and sweet peppers and served with a soft pitta for mopping it up.
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