Pearly Cow, York review: Three brothers' restaurant that celebrates Yorkshire produce

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Pearly Cow, York review: Three brothers' restaurant that celebrates Yorkshire produce
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  • 📰 The Yorkshire Post
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In 2022 the Grange Hotel, a handsome Regency mansion on Clifton in York, was bought by three brothers, Tristan, Tom and James Guest, who transformed it from traditional chintz to contemporary chic.

The grey brick and porticoed entrance remains unchanged, but inside it’s had a total redesign. Black- painted walls in reception continue up the elegant, winding staircase. If you like your violins mounted on the wall, you’ll be right at home here. Huge mirrors and abstract art in the Marmalade Lounge, a more traditional bar and an attractive panelled dining room.

Do you need an explanation? Double fried to perfection, crunchy outside, soft inside with a mustard and mayo dip. Less thrilling was a side of ‘seasonal greens’ which amounted to a lot of mange tout, two pieces of long-stemmed broccoli and a couple of croutons.

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