Daily News | Pearl & Mary is carrying on Philly’s oyster bar tradition. The menu is a work in progress.
I was craving a briny snack, so I took a detour to 13th and Sansom where I found refuge from the steamy summer heat at Pearl & Mary. Perched on the far corner of its white marble raw bar, I could feel the chill of the long ice bank where shuckers in perpetual motion opened and stacked oysters, clams and lobsters onto tiered trays for a steady parade of seafood towers. A few gingery sips of an icy Bourbon Buck continued to cool me down.
The food? I’ve got plenty of notes on a potentially appealing seafood-centric menu that’s still seeking consistency and touch. But the elements of potential success are in place.The service is reliably energetic and outgoing. The drinks are fun and well-crafted . You’ve got the Schulson Collective’s corporate pastry chef Abby Dahan assuring sweet endings with can’t-miss banana cream pie, among other delights.
If this kitchen can deliver this menu with any consistency, P&M should have a solid run. I like the spirit behind its blend of classic American fish house fare with stylish nods to the global influences of Schulson’s other restaurants. A crispy branzino fillet topped with herbs and fried shallots served with lettuce wraps cradling lacy shreds of Vietnamese-style pickled veggies and a nước chấm dip is an example of this menu at its brightest.
The crudos have consistently lacked acid to perk them up, or were obscured with a heavy hand on crunchy garnishes, or missing an expected signature note, like the advertised gochujang for the salmon crudo that was so subtle, it was invisible.
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