The PacoRabanne resort 2024 collection is here. See every look:
Fashion contains so many contradictions. Its constant hunger for the new often extends to a fascination with youth; yet there’s also a pull toward heritage. A flower can’t grow without roots, after all. This push-and-pull is especially marked at “heritage” houses.
This season fancy and relaxed elements co-exist in garments ; the collection contains a holiday capsule, and it’s these looks, with close-ups of the Eiffel Tower as the backdrop, that appear first in the look book. Here Dossena has adapted ’30s silhouettes, and garnished them with Paco-inspired accessories. He has paired, as is his wont, metal mesh with lace.
From there the lookbook takes us to the Trocadero where Dossena revisits his love of boho luxe, fringe, tapestry, and grunge. The designer’s stated references are the ’70s and ’90s, and he succeeded in updating visual codes from those eras in a way that captured his own take on contemporary dressing, even if the soul was missing. Mixed among these military, Klute-ish, and grungy looks, tough-girl boots—even fierce looking ones made in collaboration with New Rock—do not a rebel make.
Grunge is a recurring Dossena touchpoint: if you really drill down, the ethos and physicality of grunge has a very clear connection to Paco Rabanne’s first designs. Seattleites were creating style with what they had at hand; jeans worn from usage, flannel shirts and thermals that kept out some of the cold. That’s not so different from what the expatriate Spaniard was doing in Paris, making links from leftover leathers, and using atypical, humble materials like plastic and metal.
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