Seattle’s first neighborhood is still recovering from the pandemic, but its rich history, jaw-dropping drama and 19th-century city planning decisions live on, along with memories of the gold rush t…
SEATTLE – It’s a rare weekend getaway that combines subterranean sidewalks, conflagrations and a Polar Bar, complete with glacier ice. Also walruses. A little Jules Verne. And the founder of Nordstrom.A century ago, private clubs devoted to scientific exploration were a thing – in real life, not just in Disney movies and “Around the World in 80 Days.
History runs deep at the Arctic Club Hotel in Seattle, where the Polar Bar offer up “I am the Walrus” cocktails. We Californians have our own 49ers lore on that score. But the Klondike Gold Rush, which sent 100,000 fortune-hunters stampeding northward in the late 1890s, is a tale of its own. Gold fever took hold so completely, even Seattle’s mayor bailed to go seek his fortune in the Yukon.
The museum is a delight. Its two floors are filled with artifacts, photos and displays, including a re-created outfitter’s shop filled with canned goods, boots and other items from a truly jaw-droppingThe Klondike Gold Rush National Historical Park visitors center in Seattle offers a glimpse of the past.
Afterward, we stop in at Damn the Weather — best name ever for a Seattle bar — for a charcuterie-style bite and a bit of research as we enjoy the cozy ambience of this century-old building, with its exposed brick walls. On that balmy spring day, Gall says, an assistant at Victor Clairmont’s woodworking shop at what is now 909 First Ave. was melting glue over an open flame. When the glue boiled over and ignited, young John Back panicked and threw a bucket of water on the flames and —
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