Sorry to this country
of its more baroque Viennese ancestors: When Tim Varney, co-founder of the Bureaux Collective roasting facility in Melbourne, was growing up in the ’80s, he recalls that they were frequently topped “with choc dusting and iceberg foam.”Eater is bringing this guide to life with a food-filled trip to Melbourne, brought to you by Black Tomato. Check out the itinerary and book your trip.
Ultimately, the move away from the hard-hat cappuccino and the emergence of the flat white makes sense in terms of shifting expectations: The rigid definition of the “classic” drink was limiting, and when it comes to true hospitality, service is about saying “yes” and offering the best of what there is — and when the drink in question is open to interpretation, as the flat white may well be, there’s a better chance that every interpretation is the “perfect” one. As St.
Leon Unglik brought a personal interpretation of Melbourne hospitality to New York City with his Midtown cafe Little Collins. “Australia has this very unique and special coffee culture,” he says, reminiscing about the all-day chill of the shops back home, “and the flat white kind of typifies that coffee culture and what we’re about. It’s not like a cocktail that you can look up a recipe and it’s almost universally the same everywhere.” His voice has the crack of a smile in it.
Perhaps that’s another way of saying that the seemingly endless pursuit of the definitive flat white is missing the ocean for the microfoam, so to speak. The flat white is the first espresso drink to transcend its Italian roots to become something uniquely Antipodean, to defy the kinds of definitions we’re always trying to assign to things. It’s not a recipe you can follow, but the embodiment of an entire coffee culture, one that cares more about how things feel than how they’re supposed to be.
has been a specialty-coffee professional and a working journalist for nearly 20 years. She works for the green-coffee importing company Cafe Imports, and has written for the
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