One Writer Tries to Eat Her Way Through Hong Kong's 14,000 Restaurants

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One Writer Tries to Eat Her Way Through Hong Kong's 14,000 Restaurants
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'The vaguest advice I receive before leaving for Hong Kong is also the soundest: 'Eat all the things.''

The vaguest advice I receive before leaving for Hong Kong is also the soundest: “Eat all the things.” To dine at a different establishment for each meal every day would take more than 14 years, and by then there would be new ones. On Hong Kong Airlines, I get a teaser. For business class, the Vancouver route serves dishes from award-winning Dynasty Seafood, which some say offers the best dim sum outside of China. The daily flight arrives around 5 p.m., just in time for dinner.

On Hong Kong Island, Central is the city’s heart and the obvious place to start exploring. I get my bearings in the most whimsical way: with a morning street-art tour led by Accidental Art. Around corners and down back alleys, Banksy, Shepard Fairey and Invader have left their marks. You feel graffiti’s impermanence most acutely, though, when viewing one of the last remaining calligraphy works by the late Tsang Tsou-choi on Hong Kong’s mainland.

One of only four remaining pieces of artwork by the King of Kowloon. Photography via Getty/PHILIPPE LOPEZ Also in Central, there’s PMQ. Short for “Police Married Quarters,” a nod to the buildings’ past life, it provides affordable studio and retail spaces for local designers. On the fourth floor of Block A, there’s Central Saint Martins grad

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