Randall Grahm teams up with Gallo for a pair of Santa Barbara Beauties.
’s cool Santa Maria Valley. On its face, the unlikely mashup of styles—unconventional maverick on one side, likely complicated corporate layers on the other—might seem fraught with potential for creative limitations and cross-purpose agendas.So I asked.
With the resources of Gallo behind his research and execution, Grahm has produced a Language of Yes Grenache and Syrah employing the slightly unusual step of air-drying the grapes for a bit before fermentation. A side-effect of the very slight dehydration involved is a small boost in alcohol , but the real goal is a “lignification of the grape rachis” , to banish any herbal or vegetal character the cool-weather vines might harbor.
In fact, The Language of Yes 2020 Rancho Réal Vineyard En Passerillage Grenache hovers somewhere between the New World and the Old. Perfumed with rose petals, the nose combines vibrant red fruit—strawberry and pomegranate—with a touch of wild underbrush the French call “garrigue,” along with warm spices. Some density and phenolic textures speak to the air-drying process, while bright sour cherry is spiced with cloves and orange peel.
“Soulful” might be unexpected in corporate praise of portfolio wines, but in the case of these Central Coast beauties with a touch of Old World sensibility, most welcome. “Randall’s mind never rests,” says Joe Gallo. “He is only limited by his creativity—and Randall’s creativity is limitless.”
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