It's the season for apple crumbles, and this recipe contains a surprising ingredient that makes it an instant classic
Aleksandra CrapanzanoWHEN A NEW cookbook from the British food writer Nigel Slater arrives in my house, I set it aside until I can find a full day to sequester myself and read it cover to cover. His humble evocations quietly thrill me: “A few pieces of melon rolled in the juice of a passion fruit for breakfast,” or “There may be wedges of toasted sourdough, glossy with olive oil and flakes of sea salt.
Mr. Slater’s attention to words matches his loving regard for ingredients, whether a gnarly ball of celeriac or a single red currant bathed...
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