On the Greek Island of Chios, One Tree Rules Them All

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On the Greek Island of Chios, One Tree Rules Them All
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This piney-tasting sap flavors everything from liquors to candy

There’s an art to making mastic trees cry.

It takes a little bit of pressure to lodge the tip of a pick into the bark and pull it across the tree in a process called, or sewing. Too little force and nothing happens; too much and you risk damaging the tree, drying up its precious resin long before retirement age. The incision should immediately start to shimmer with oozing sap, which will eventually elongate into sticky, glittery tears.Katherine Whittaker, or mastic, has a distinct, piney taste that people either love or hate.

While mastic trees are found in other parts of the world, the Greek island of Chios is the only place where the trees produce a resin this flavorful in such quantity. For this island, mastic is everything. Their economy has relied on the sap for centuries, exporting it as early as 330 A.D. to Egypt and Syria, and today largely to the Middle East. When Chios became part of the Ottoman Empire in 1566, residents in the mastic villages were exempt from certain taxes and obligations.

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