In this week's Tasting Notes newsletter, critic Patricia Escárcega writes about her favorite restaurant meal of the summer.
. They were a special treat around my house when I was a kid. They took my mother all afternoon to make, and disappeared within minutes of leaving the stovetop.I would argue that the proto-California taquito is at Mitla Cafe in San Bernardino. The restaurant, an amiable, cavernous cafe on Route 66, has a long and storied history in Southern California. Most famously, the restaurant’sare said to have inspired Taco Bell founder Glen Bell to popularize — and monetize — the hard-shelled taco.
My colleague Gustavo Arellano, one of my favorite writers and one of our finest food chroniclers, tells the story in his book “Mitla Cafe is home to one hell of a taquito dorado: preternaturally crunchy, with a fried-to-order tortilla folded around a parcel of impeccably seasoned ground beef. The accoutrements include a blizzard of chopped tomatoes, iceberg lettuce and shredded cheddar cheese. The dish feels like a tidy, crisp homage to Midcentury America.
A few days before my daughter was born, we drove to San Bernardino for an order of Mitla’s golden tacos. I have a modest family connection to the restaurant: Lucia Rodriguez, who founded Mitla Cafe in the 1930s, was my grandmother’s aunt. Beyond the family ties, I feel a visceral connection to this mode of Mexican cooking. These taquitos tell a fascinating story about the way cultures come together in curious and pragmatic ways.
I’m convinced that the most satisfying meals are those that tap into the well of personal memory. Meals that seem to reach back in time to scratch a nagging, primordial itch. This was one of those meals, so wholly pleasing that I forgot for a moment about the to-do lists and the not-trivial fact that I would be checking into a hospital in a few days to have a baby. My lunch at Mitla was one of the best things I ate all summer.
On that note, I’d love to hear about the outstanding meals you enjoyed this summer. Tell me about it at
Brasil Últimas Notícias, Brasil Manchetes
Similar News:Você também pode ler notícias semelhantes a esta que coletamos de outras fontes de notícias.
10 Ways to Break Out of Your Summer SlumpEasy tips for moving past those lazy summer days and stirring things up this fall
Consulte Mais informação »
The 10 Best Eddie Money Songs: Critic's PicksEddie Money enjoyed a string of Hot 100 hits that spanned three decades -- but instead of letting the success of “Take Me Home Tonight,” “Shakin’” or “Two Tickets to Paradise” go to his head, he leaned right into being rock radio’s most relatable everyman.
Consulte Mais informação »
Gunna's 10 Best Collaborations Ranked, From Young Thug to Lil Baby: Critic's PicksPrior to his performance next week (Sept. 19) in his hometown as part of the Billboard Hip-Hop Live series, we break down the best 10 collaborations throughout Gunna's career.
Consulte Mais informação »
The 38 best tacos to eat in Los AngelesLA has the breadth, depth, and specialization to be America’s best taco scene
Consulte Mais informação »
Special Sauce: Tom Roston on the Untold Stories of Windows on the WorldAuthor Tom Roston speaks to Ed about his recent book, The Most Spectacular Restaurant in the World, a history of the Windows on the World restaurant at the World Trade Center.
Consulte Mais informação »