There will be marshmallows. And whipped cream.
But these recipes, dotted and stained from frequent use, were meant to be cooked. One of the first recipes I pulled out was the hilariously-nameda marshmallow and whipped cream concoction. Little did I know that this recipe, like so much of our food history, is enmeshed in politics, feminism, and health issues as much as it is in marshmallow fluff.
The irony of all my chopping and grating, though, was that this dish wasn’t meant to be labor intensive. In fact, quite the opposite. Canned pineapple and packaged marshmallows were a symbol of convenience, for home cooks with other things to do with their time. In the 1890s, it was slowly becoming socially acceptable for women to eat in public restaurants, and with that trend came, as Wassburg explains, "this whole idea of ‘dainty’ food like gelatins and marshmallow.” There were also food safety concerns at the time because people were lacing food with dyes often made with dangerous chemicals. Foods that were white, like marshmallows, were considered safe.
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