My Favorite Place for Soup Is Hidden in a Pizza Restaurant

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My Favorite Place for Soup Is Hidden in a Pizza Restaurant
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Highly Recommend: Taste of Persia's ash reshteh on any kind of New York day.

, a not-quite-restaurant that serves a rotating set of Persian dishes. Both the beef kebab and the fesenjan, a chicken stew with walnuts and pomegranate, are excellent. But I’m there for the ash reshteh, a hearty vegetarian soup I will eat not only in the winter but also during a humid summer day if I find myself within five blocks of the storefront.

What makes this beans-and-greens soup so excellent? It’s the fact that there are so much of both. That means five kinds of beans: split peas, lentils, chickpeas, red kidney beans,black beans. As for the greens, there are scallions and spinach, plus tons of herbs . It almost sounds like too much going on, but the result is a fragrant amalgam of a whole lot of goodness. It’s like when you have a party and invite exactly the right number of people so that it feels full but not too crowded.

So get some soup, get some chicken, and, if you want, get some pizza too. They aren’t meant to go together, but sometimes at a party you end up having a conversation with someone you didn’t expect to, and it works out pretty damn great.

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