.CathyHoryn's take on Rick Owens, Balmain, Chloé
Photo: Courtesy of Rick Owens, Balmain, Chloe Picture the scene. A model is swanning down the runway in a pointy-shoulder black jacket that suggests she just left a Batman convention, followed by another girl in a dull-silver gown who, instead of a purse, is toting a small fog machine. The fog completely envelopes her in a cloud. It becomes so thick that nobody can see a thing, just the barest outline. The photographers start howling.
Rick Owens Photo: Courtesy of Rick Owens His shows often involve special effects. There was a time when pairs of female athletes were strapped to each other, butts to faces, as one woman, literally and figuratively, carried the burden of the other. But Owens also knows how to do a lot with a little. Those were just portable fog machines, after all. Besides, he’s way too cool to get lost in the theatrics.
Rick Owens Photo: Courtesy of Rick Owens Second, and more important, the colors in the collection were gorgeous: deep aqua, sunflower yellow, gondola red, and pale pink with orange. Against his beloved mud tones and those puffs of smoke, they looked luminous. It was the same effect of seeing stonework and water shrouded in fog or smoke with light peeking through. Owens has an apartment in Venice, not far from his company’s factories.
Although this collection felt more substantial than Hearst’s previous efforts, it suffered in two ways. The first is that Hearst’s affection for sturdy, flat-heeled boots pulls her silhouette downward, making it look bottom-heavy. Chloé is known for a lighthearted, airy, feminine sensibility. Where has that gone? The second is there is still too much similarity between her own label and Chloé.
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