Milk Bar’s New Flagship Is All Sugar, No Soul

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Milk Bar’s New Flagship Is All Sugar, No Soul
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Milk Bar’s depressingly corporate future is on full display at its new Manhattan flagship store, writes qualityrye. The EaterNY review:

desserts can send Tosi a thank-you note. Milk Bar’s influence is nothing less than immense.

A triangle slice of birthday crumb-studded cookie cake mimics the sensation of eating crystallized frosting by the mouthful, while the sludge-like birthday shake conveys the feeling of sucking up that same frosting through a straw and chasing it with musty sprinkle dust. A birthday latte tastes like what would happen if a barista accidentally poured half a cup of artificial vanilla syrup into milk-colored hot water and forgot to add coffee.

Clockwise from top left: A large cookie cake with pretzels, a racks of exposed cakes, and bagel bombs At Milk Bar, non-sweets have been purged from the satellite stores and relegated to the flagship locations — a disappointing change from early days. Milk Bar’s first location, in the East Village, once served one of the city’s greatest sandwiches: a poached egg that had been deep-fried and plopped on an English muffin slicked with onions and bacon.

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Eater /  🏆 368. in US

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