The new cowboy-cultured restaurant at the Omni La Mansión del Rio doesn’t have the...
Four Brothers found its spiritual center on the grill. For the steak lover who wants to keep things civilized, an 8-ounce filet mignon came to the party perfectly seared, tender enough to cut with a fork and fully dressed with asparagus, potatoes and spinach puree, a solid value even at $62 for a fully composed plate.
At some point, we have to talk about brunch. The buffet’s gone, replaced by an ordinary weekend a la carte menu that included a towering croque madame sandwich bristling with ham on thick griddled bread with bechamel and a fried egg, showered with an infestation of fried leeks that left a bitter taste in every bite. We sent back an egg white frittata, its top broiled to a stiff black armor, almost as stiff as the $14 cinnamon rolls we left mostly uneaten.
But here’s where the spirit of Las Canarias stepped backed in. Our waiter was part of that top-flight service crew, one of several we recognized from those better days, the days when they knew your kids’ names and pulled out your chairs. She swapped out the frittata for chilaquiles, wiped down the riverside table to make room and even went to the coffee shop in the lobby to fetch a latte the restaurant wasn’t equipped to make.
But I’ll spend no more time glorifying Las Canarias. Its golden age had come and gone already by the timewatching as the flagship restaurant of a landmark independent hotel became “just another link in a shiny chain.” It was time for a change, for a refresh, for a new River Walk standard-bearer to take its place. Four Brothers isn’t it.
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