José R. Ralat's new book, 'American Tacos,' goes deep on north-of-the-border taco culture.
Not much different from my definition of a taco. Tacos developed at about the same time on both sides of the river before there was a border. Each country had its own taco traditions from nearly the beginning. Mexicans have folded things in tortillas for thousands of years but they weren’t always called tacos — and we can debate that forever — but I think a taco is a representation and reflection of its time and place. It’s regional.
The Midwest is where you can find freshly fried crispy tacos of many different regionalities. In Chicago I found one built with picadillo — filled, deep-fried and served with a Kraft single slice of cheese, at an Irish pub. It’s that integrated into the culture. Then you get the Kansas City taco, which is a product of Mexican and Italian laborers living side by side, trading ingredients. It’s relatively new, which surprises me, because Kansas City, Mo., has always had Mexicans.
The point is that we need to understand that just because something exists outside of our realm of experience does not negate it. At best, it’s misguided. At worst, it’s racist. I get this argument more from Anglos than I do other people. [Tacos] ultimately belong to Mexico. They get the final word. Those of us who live in the borderlands are just lucky enough to live in a part of the world that was once Mexico.You have a chapter called “K-Mex.
In the chapter on “Sur-Mex,” or Southern-style tacos, you call El Mero in Memphis, Tenn. one of the best taco operations in the country. What made it so memorable?
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