At the Bronx Night Market, Angel Medina ad libs on traditional Latin and Caribbean cooking, but with twists that come from a deep appreciation for the cuisine and culture. BinduBansinath reports
Photo: Christian Rodriguez Messing with a chopped cheese in New York is usually gentrifying business. The uptown combination of griddled ground beef, onions, and American cheese is a bodega specialty, a staple across Harlem and the Bronx, and, as the sandwich’s many fans will tell you, something that doesn’t need upgrading. Still, people try. Whole Foods infamously sold an $8 version out of a literal Christopher Columbus cart — smdh — emblazoned with the year “1492” on the side.
Medina, who is half–Puerto Rican and half-Dominican, ad libs on traditional Latin and Caribbean cooking, but with twists that come from a deep appreciation for the cuisine and culture. What’s refreshing about Medina’s food is that there are no gimmicks, only very obvious hustle and realness, and he is willing to extend the love to anyone who visits his booth at Fordham Plaza.
Inside the building, word got out. Other staff were impressed with the Tupperwares Medina brought for lunch and talked him up to the residents. One tenant asked Medina to cook for him one-on-one and loved the food so much he sent an email blast to everyone in the 323-unit building. “So everybody started to see that I cook,” Medina recalls. On weeknights, residents would call him at the front desk.
For as much as Medina loves the Queens Night Market, he’s made the decision not to go back. Instead, he’s passionate about building a presence in the Bronx. It’s “a way bigger grind” to switch from an established market to a newer one — the Bronx Night Market only became a weekly event in July — but that’s the business of pop-ups. And after all, the Bronx is home. “It’s literally my DNA,” Medina says.
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