The fall 2023 Martine Rose menswear collection is here. See every look:
The venue for Martine Rose’s first-ever non-hometown show was one of finest Pitti and Florence could offer, which was only a fitting reception for one of London’s finest designers. We were downtown, a few blocks up from the Ponte Vecchio, seated in eccentric fashion beneath the 16th-century loggia in Piazza del Mercato Nuovo.
By day this vaulted structure is typically thronged with stalls selling passable leather goods and dubious sweatshirts, most definitely not Made in Italy, to an abundant footfall of dawdling tourists. This evening it was transformed into a luridly shag-piled, mirror-ceilinged discotheque inhabited by a fast-walking clientele of dressed characters.
Rose, though, is very specific in her cultural proclivities. In London we regularly go back to the late ’80s and ’90s as she conjures a rogue’s gallery of types cast creatively through a prism of dance music—mostly hardcore and jungle—and terrace-referencing laddishness touched by attitude, rebellion, and a soupçon of knowing sleaze. Here she said she was extending that prism to Italo Disco andOnce we got to the market things got a little frenetic.
This was a production stumble not one of design, but it was a shame not to be able fully to appreciate the latest update of Rose’s Nike collab, or the many half-skirted tailored jackets and bumster pants, waistlines spilt over with satin shirting, that were exclusively party at the back. What you could glean on the spot, plus appreciate online later, was that this was vintage Rose with a subtly fresh flavor. Fringed tracksuits and tailoring were an interesting mosey westwards.
The happy fact is that Rose’s work translated finely to Florence, just as we have already seen it influentially expressed as part of a larger luxury chorus of fashion design, just not under her name, in Paris. Afterwards Rose was mobbed just alongside the. This fountain is graced with an ancient-ish bronze wild boar who legend holds is the transfigured victim of a girlfriend who couldn’t keep a secret. Apparently, touching its snout brings you luck.
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