“We were open less than a year…”
, which means they play the Cantonese bops: steamed fish with scallion and ginger, pork belly braised in soy, garlicky snow-pea leaves. Uncle Lou is an unqualified success — I’d like to recommend the pan-fried noodles with chicken and char siu — and looking at the variety of people gathered around lazy Susans that night, I got the sense that what the city needs isn’t for Chinatown to do anything different, but rather for it to be afforded the freedom to do what it’s always done very well.
Ngo’s food is Teochew cooking in Manhattan by way of Ho Chi Minh City: rice-noodle soups in a chicken broth; curry; and braised duck in a superior broth, or master stock that can last as long as a restaurant. “Every generation of my father’s family has been born in a different place,” he said as we ate. “My grandfather was born in China. My father was born in Cambodia. I was born in Vietnam, and my kids were born in New York.
After Thái Son, Ngo wanted to show me other places around the neighborhood, including the corner of Baxter and Walker where he had his first New York job, selling vegetables at a stand in 1979. He met his wife while working at the family restaurant; they got married at Grand Harmony, which is now the
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