Every dish that arrived came with a feeling of relief and satisfaction. ‘Yes, I’m in the right place’. ‘Yes, everything’s going to be alright’. ‘Yes, broad beans are the best vegetable.’
Restaurants are winning awards all the time these days. Or being voted best something by someone. It’s a bit exhausting and makes genuine achievements easier to pass over. Awards fatigue, it's probably called.
With glass wrapped around two sides of the room, the place is brilliantly light and thoughtfully designed. At the back, there’s the impressive wine selection on display, racked up in its own room and overseen by Higher Ground’s wine expert Daniel Craig Martin. Thanks to this impressive pedigree, everything about the place works properly and this is before you’ve even had a plate placed in front of you .
The broth it all comes in tastes of the sea, thanks to the mussel stock. It looks like a simple dish, but you know it’s not. There are broad beans in here too, echoed in the broad beans on toast . A dish of little gem with a dressing made from Garstang blue cheese from Lancashire and burnt onions is a revelation. A lettuce dish rarely steals the show, but this one did, with crispy dried leeks and blackened, almost sooty streaks of dark burnt leek on top. It’s their take on a classic steakhouse wedge salad, and I’d go back for that on its own time and time again.
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